Resonant long-wave run-up on a plane beach

T. S. Stefanakis, F. Dias, D. Dutykh

Research output: Chapter in Book/Report/Conference proceedingConference contributionpeer-review

2 Scopus citations

Abstract

Even though wave run-up is not a new subject, until recently analytical and numerical studies of long wave run-up on a plane beach have failed to identify the existence of resonant regimes. Furthermore, it was a common belief that the leading wave will result in the maximum runup. Stefanakis et al. (2011) underlined the importance of resonant long wave interactions during run-up and run-down. In the current paper we provide additional results with the use of one-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water equations with boundary forcing for plane and nontrivial beaches. Several wave profiles are used as forcing conditions to the boundary value problem. Resonant interactions between incident and receding waves are found to occur, depending on the beach slope and the wavelength, and result in enhanced run-up of non-leading waves.

Original languageBritish English
Title of host publicationProceedings of the 22nd (2012) International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
Pages116-121
Number of pages6
StatePublished - 2012
Event22nd International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2012 - Rhodes, Greece
Duration: 17 Jun 201222 Jun 2012

Publication series

NameProceedings of the International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference
ISSN (Print)1098-6189
ISSN (Electronic)1555-1792

Conference

Conference22nd International Offshore and Polar Engineering Conference, ISOPE-2012
Country/TerritoryGreece
CityRhodes
Period17/06/1222/06/12

Keywords

  • Long wave
  • Resonance
  • Run-up

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