Extreme inundation statistics on a composite beach

Ahmed Abdalazeez; Ira Didenkulova; Denys Dutykh; Céline Labart

doi:10.3390/W12061573

Extreme inundation statistics on a composite beach

Ahmed Abdalazeez
, Ira Didenkulova
, Denys Dutykh
, Céline Labart

Mathematics

Tallinn University of Technology
Nizhny Novgorod State Technical University n.a. R.E. Alekseev
CNRS Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique

Research output: Contribution to journal › Article › peer-review

2 Scopus citations

Abstract

The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address dierent levels of nonlinearity, time series with five dierent significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the eects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditionalWeibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.

Original language	British English
Article number	1573
Journal	Water (Switzerland)
Volume	12
Issue number	6
DOIs	https://doi.org/10.3390/W12061573
State	Published - 1 Jun 2020

Keywords

Freak runups
Nonlinear shallow water theory
Numerical modelling
Wave breaking
Wave runup
Wave statistics

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10.3390/W12061573

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title = "Extreme inundation statistics on a composite beach",

abstract = "The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address dierent levels of nonlinearity, time series with five dierent significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the eects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (\textasciitilde{}360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditionalWeibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.",

keywords = "Freak runups, Nonlinear shallow water theory, Numerical modelling, Wave breaking, Wave runup, Wave statistics",

author = "Ahmed Abdalazeez and Ira Didenkulova and Denys Dutykh and C{\'e}line Labart",

note = "Funding Information: Funding: The study of distribution functions and the statistical moments of irregular wave runup was performed with the support of an RSF grant (16-17-00041). The numerical simulations of wave runup were supported by an ETAG grant (PUT1378). The authors also thank the PHC PARROT project (No. 37456YM), which funded the visits to France and Estonia, thus facilitating this collaboration. Funding Information: The study of distribution functions and the statistical moments of irregular wave runup was performed with the support of an RSF grant (16-17-00041). The numerical simulations of wave runup were supported by an ETAG grant (PUT1378). The authors also thank the PHC PARROT project (No. 37456YM), which funded the visits to France and Estonia, thus facilitating this collaboration. The computations were performed using the computer cluster of the Department of Marine Systems of Tallinn University of Technology. Publisher Copyright: {\textcopyright} 2020 by the authors.",

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doi = "10.3390/W12061573",

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volume = "12",

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AU - Abdalazeez, Ahmed

AU - Didenkulova, Ira

AU - Dutykh, Denys

AU - Labart, Céline

N1 - Funding Information: Funding: The study of distribution functions and the statistical moments of irregular wave runup was performed with the support of an RSF grant (16-17-00041). The numerical simulations of wave runup were supported by an ETAG grant (PUT1378). The authors also thank the PHC PARROT project (No. 37456YM), which funded the visits to France and Estonia, thus facilitating this collaboration. Funding Information: The study of distribution functions and the statistical moments of irregular wave runup was performed with the support of an RSF grant (16-17-00041). The numerical simulations of wave runup were supported by an ETAG grant (PUT1378). The authors also thank the PHC PARROT project (No. 37456YM), which funded the visits to France and Estonia, thus facilitating this collaboration. The computations were performed using the computer cluster of the Department of Marine Systems of Tallinn University of Technology. Publisher Copyright: © 2020 by the authors.

PY - 2020/6/1

Y1 - 2020/6/1

N2 - The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address dierent levels of nonlinearity, time series with five dierent significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the eects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditionalWeibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.

AB - The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the section of a constant depth, which is matched with the beach of constant slope. To address dierent levels of nonlinearity, time series with five dierent significant wave heights are considered. The selected wave parameters allow for also seeing the eects of wave breaking on wave statistics. The total physical time of each simulated time-series is 1000 h (~360,000 wave periods). The statistics of calculated wave runup heights are discussed with respect to the wave nonlinearity, wave breaking and the bandwidth of the incoming wave field. The conditionalWeibull distribution is suggested as a model for the description of extreme runup heights and the assessment of extreme inundations.

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KW - Wave breaking

KW - Wave runup

KW - Wave statistics

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Extreme inundation statistics on a composite beach

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